Hi David

The M2000 coping saw comes with 5 blades – one fitted and 4 in the clear blister.

The wider blades are suited to cutting longer straight lines as the additional blade width will reduce the tendency for the blade to wander.

The narrower blades are more suited to cutting intricate curves and internal holes, for example.

Select the tooth pitch [number of teeth per inch] based on the type of wood being cut. If solid wood e.g. pine/ ash/ beech etc, then choose a coarser tooth [less TPI] but for man-made boards [chipboard/ MDF and especially veneered or plastic laminated boards such as Contiplas] then choose a finer blade [more TPI].

On all coping saw blades, they cut on the back stroke, that is, the blades is inserted with the teeth facing backwards towards the handle.

When drilling an internal hole, for example for going over a pipe such as skirting, drill a clearance hole to allow the t-pin of the coping saw blade to pass through and then attach to the coping saw frame.

I trust that this is of assistance